FAQ

  1. General Questions

  2. Q: What kind of fertilizer do you recommend and when should I put it down?

    A local lawn care store in your area might have some specific recommendations that they know work well with GEO, but generically, we recommend a fertilizer in the spring with a 1-0-1 ratio (like a 15-0-15) and in the fall, a fertilizer with a 1-0-2 ratio (like an 8-0-16.) Again the numbers are Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium. These are generic recommendations that are meant to work for a wide area, from California to Florida. Again, it’s always good to check with a local lawn care professional about specific fertilizers for GEO in your particular climate and soil conditions. We always recommend getting your soil tested every couple of years to know if you need any amendments. The health of the grass starts in the soil.

  3. Buying

  4. Q: Which grass should I use?

    Selection of the proper turfgrass variety for your situation is a somewhat subjective process. First, you must consider varieties that perform best in your local climate and soil type...there's no sense trying to make a grass work in an environment that it wasn't designed for. Second, you should look to varieties that combine the overall qualities that are most important to you; aesthetics, maintenance requirements, environmental aspects, etc. To assist you in deciding which Sod Solutions' variety is right for you, use our Turf Grass Selector

  5. Q: How do I know if I got authentic Captiva St. Augustine?

    You will know you are getting the “real deal” if you buy your Captiva from one of our Authorized Distributors. Visit the “Where to Buy” section of our website to find an Authorized Distributor near you. While it is possible to buy real Captiva from someone not on the list, we will not be able to verify if it’s the real thing. 


  6. Q: How do I know if I got authentic Celebration Bermudagrass?

    You will know you are getting the “real deal” if you buy your Celebration from one of our Authorized Distributors. Visit the “Where to Buy” section of our website to find an Authorized Distributor near you. While it is possible to buy real Celebration from someone not on the list, we will not be able to verify if it’s the real thing.

  7. Q: How do I know if I got authentic Covington Centipede?

    You will know you are getting the “real deal” if you buy your Covington from one of our Authorized Distributors. Visit the “Where to Buy” section of our website to find an Authorized Distributor near you. While it is possible to buy real Covington from someone not on the list, we will not be able to verify if it’s the real thing. 


  8. Q: How do I know if I got authentic Discovery Bermudagrass?

    You will know you are getting the “real deal” if you buy your Discovery from one of our Authorized Distributors. Visit the “Where to Buy” section of our website to find an Authorized Distributor near you. While it is possible to buy real Discovery from someone not on the list, we will not be able to verify if it’s the real thing.

  9. Q: How do I know if I got authentic EMPIRE Turf?

    You will know you are getting the “real deal” if you buy your EMPIRE from one of our Authorized Distributors. Visit the “Where to Buy” section of our website to find an Authorized Distributor near you. While it is possible to buy real EMPIRE from someone not on the list, we will not be able to verify if it’s the real thing.

  10. Q: How do I know if I got authentic GEO Zoysia?

    You will know you are getting the “real deal” if you buy your GEO from one of our Authorized Distributors. Visit the “Where to Buy” section of our website to find an Authorized Distributor near you. While it is possible to buy real GEO from someone not on the list, we will not be able to verify if it’s the real thing.

  11. Q: How do I know if I got authentic Latitude 36 Bermudagrass?

    You will know you are getting the “real deal” if you buy your Latitude 36 from one of our Licensed Producers or Authorized Distributors. Visit the “Where to Buy” section of our website to find a Licensed Producers or Authorized Distributor near you. While it is possible to buy real Latitude 36 from someone not on the list, we will not be able to verify if it’s the real thing.

  12. Q: How do I know if I got authentic NorthBridge Bermudagrass?

    You will know you are getting the “real deal” if you buy your NorthBridge from one of our Authorized Distributors. Visit the “Where to Buy” section of our website to find an Authorized Distributor near you. While it is possible to buy real NorthBridge from someone not on the list, we will not be able to verify if it’s the real thing.

  13. Q: How do I know if I got authentic Palmetto St. Augustine?

    You will know you are getting the “real deal” if you buy your Palmetto from one of our Authorized Distributors. Visit the “Where to Buy” section of our website to find an Authorized Distributor near you. While it is possible to buy real Palmetto from someone not on the list, we will not be able to verify if it’s the real thing.

  14. Q: How do I know if I got authentic Santee Centipede?

    You will know you are getting the “real deal” if you buy your Santee from one of our Authorized Distributors. Visit the “Where to Buy” section of our website to find an Authorized Distributor near you. While it is possible to buy real Santee from someone not on the list, we will not be able to verify if it’s the real thing. 


  15. Q: How do I know if I got authentic Sapphire St. Augustine?

    You will know you are getting the “real deal” if you buy your Sapphire from one of our Authorized Distributors. Visit the “Where to Buy” section of our website to find an Authorized Distributor near you. While it is possible to buy real Sapphire from someone not on the list, we will not be able to verify if it’s the real thing.

  16. Q: How do I know if I got authentic Bella Bluegrass?

    You will know you are getting the “real deal” if you buy your Bella from one of our Authorized Distributors. Visit the “Where to Buy” section of our website to find an Authorized Distributor near you. While it is possible to buy real Bella from someone not on the list, we will not be able to verify if it’s the real thing.

  17. Q: How do I know if I got authentic HGT?

    You will know you are getting the “real deal” if you buy your HGT from one of our Authorized Distributors. Visit the “Where to Buy” section of our website to find an Authorized Distributor near you. While it is possible to buy real HGT from someone not on the list, we will not be able to verify if it’s the real thing.

  18. Q: How do I know if I got authentic RPR?

    You will know you are getting the “real deal” if you buy your RPR from one of our Authorized Distributors. Visit the “Where to Buy” section of our website to find an Authorized Distributor near you. While it is possible to buy real RPR from someone not on the list, we will not be able to verify if it’s the real thing.

  19. Q: How do I know if I am getting authentic Sod Solutions grasses?

    You will know you are getting the “real deal” if you buy your grass from one of our Authorized Distributors. Visit the Where To Buy section of our website to find an Authorized Distributor near you. While it is possible to buy authentic Sod Solutions products from someone not on the list, we will not be able to verify that it’s the real thing.

  20. Q: Do your grasses stay green year round?

    All of our warm season varieties (St. Augustine, Zoysia, Bermuda) go into dormancy when soil temperatures drop below around 68 degrees. When this happens the leaf blades lose their pigment and turn brown as the grass goes into "hibernation". When the soil warms back up above 68 degrees, the grass comes out of dormancy and greens up again. In most climates all warm season turf varieties will go dormant. If you want year round green grass, overseeding with rye grass seed in the early fall will do the trick. Just visit your local landscape supply and apply the seed with a spreader at the labeled rate. Rye grass is a cool season variety that dies off in the heat and stays green when it is cold. Our cool season varieties, Bella Bluegrass, HGT, and RPR all stay green year round (although if you are able to grow them they are usually covered in snow in the winter months!).

  21. Q: Are any of your grasses resistant to pet urine?

    No grass is immune to the effects of pet urine. Some varieties will recover from damage faster than others. There are supplements on the market now that can be added to your pet’s food to help neutralize the high pH levels in urine that can damage grass. However, we haven’t scientifically studied their effectiveness. From our experience, St. Augustine grasses have shown the best tolerance but are by no means completely immune.

  22. Q: Can I buy your grasses in seeded form?

    Since all of our current turf grass varieties are vegetatively reproduced, they are not sold in seeded form. There are other turf grass varieties that are sold as seed, but to date, no warm season St. Augustine or Zoysia variety has shown adequate performance.

  23. Installing

  24. Q: Are there any other chemicals I should put on the newly installed grass, like herbicide for weeds, insecticide for pests or fungicide to prevent fungus?

    Insecticide and broad-spectrum fungicides are fine to put down on newly installed grass. Wait on any herbicide applications until the grass is rooted in or established. Putting down herbicide before establishment can be harmful to the grass.

  25. Q: How much watering should I do after I first install the lawn?

    Water your new Captiva lawn thoroughly after installation ensuring that both the Captiva is wet and that the soil is moist at a depth of three inches. This is approximately one inch of water. Repeat this watering cycle everyday for the first two to three weeks. Remember that shaded areas and heavy soils require less water than full-sun areas and sandy soils. When proper rooting is evident, back off on watering gradually until you get it down to approximately one inch of water per week, instead of per day.

  26. Q: When will my new lawn be ready to mow?

    Mow within 10 days of installation and bag clippings for the first few mowings. New installations are often uneven and care should be taken not to “scalp” any high spots.

  27. Q: Can I successfully install/grow Celebration in shaded areas?

    Yes. Celebration can be installed and grown in shady landscapes such as the high filtered shade of pine trees; however, Celebration does need at least 3-4 hours of daily sunlight for optimum performance. Although recent university research has rated Celebration as the most shade tolerant bermudagrass (see Celebration Research for complete study details,) if your landscape has less than 3-4 hours of daily sunlight, your may experience a decline in the overall quality of your lawn. Shade tolerance for any grass variety is dependent on several factors: the total amount of sunlight hours, the type of shade (i.e. tree, structure or filtered,) the location of the (i.e. proximity to buildings, hardscapes or water features,) soil type, fertilization and the maintenance schedule. Before a huge investment is made in placing Celebration in a particular shaded area, a small sample or “test” plot should be planted to confirm success.

  28. Q: Are there any other chemicals I should put on the newly installed grass, like herbicide for weeds, insecticide for pests or fungicide to prevent fungus?

    Insecticide and broad-spectrum fungicides are fine to put down on newly installed grass. Wait on any herbicide applications until the grass is rooted in or established. Putting down herbicide before establishment can be harmful to the grass.

  29. Q: How much watering should I do after I first install the lawn?

    Water your new Celebration lawn thoroughly after installation ensuring that both the Celebration is wet and that the soil is moist at a depth of three inches. This is approximately one inch of water. Repeat this watering cycle everyday for the first two to three weeks. Remember that shaded areas and heavy soils require less water than full-sun areas and sandy soils. When proper rooting is evident, back off on watering gradually until you get it down to approximately one inch of water per week, instead of per day.

  30. Q: When will my new lawn be ready to mow?

    Mow within 10 days of installation and bag clippings for the first few mowings. New installations are often uneven and care should be taken not to “scalp” any high spots.

  31. Q: Should I fertilize my new Covington lawn and if so, what kind?

    You should use a starter fertilizer that is low in Nitrogen and higher in Phosphorus and Potassium. This “transplant friendly” regimen will help reduce the shock and minimize disease.

  32. Q: Are there any other chemicals I should put on the newly installed grass, like herbicide for weeds, insecticide for pests or fungicide to prevent fungus?

    Insecticide and broad-spectrum fungicides are fine to put down on newly installed grass. Wait on any herbicide applications until the grass is rooted in or established. Putting down herbicide before establishment can be harmful to the grass.

  33. Q: How much watering should I do after I first install the lawn?

    Water your new Covington lawn thoroughly after installation ensuring that both the Covington is wet and that the soil is moist at a depth of three inches. This is approximately one inch of water. Repeat this watering cycle everyday for the first two to three weeks. Remember that shaded areas and heavy soils require less water than full-sun areas and sandy soils. When proper rooting is evident, back off on watering gradually until you get it down to approximately one inch of water per week, instead of per day.

  34. Q: When will my new lawn be ready to mow?

    Mow within 10 days of installation and bag clippings for the first few mowings. New installations are often uneven and care should be taken not to “scalp” any high spots.

  35. Q: Can I successfully install/grow Discovery in shaded areas?

    Yes. Discovery can be installed and grown in shady landscapes such as the high filtered shade of pine trees; however, Discovery does need at least 3-4 hours of daily sunlight for optimum performance. If your landscape has less than 3-4 hours of daily sunlight, your may experience a decline in the overall quality of your lawn. Shade tolerance for any grass variety is dependent on several factors: the total amount of sunlight hours, the type of shade (i.e. tree, structure or filtered,) the location of the (i.e. proximity to buildings, hardscapes or water features,) soil type, fertilization and the maintenance schedule. Before a huge investment is made in placing Discovery in a particular shaded area, a small sample or “test” plot should be planted to confirm success.

  36. Q: Should I fertilize my new Discovery lawn and if so, what kind?

    You should use a starter fertilizer that is low in Nitrogen and higher in Phosphorus and Potassium. This “transplant friendly” regimen will help reduce the shock and minimize disease.

  37. Q: Are there any other chemicals I should put on the newly installed grass, like herbicide for weeds, insecticide for pests or fungicide to prevent fungus?

    Insecticide and broad-spectrum fungicides are fine to put down on newly installed grass. Wait on any herbicide applications until the grass is rooted in or established. Putting down herbicide before establishment can be harmful to the grass.

  38. Q: How much watering should I do after I first install the lawn?

    Water your new Discovery lawn thoroughly after installation ensuring that both the Discovery is wet and that the soil is moist at a depth of three inches. This is approximately one inch of water. Repeat this watering cycle everyday for the first two to three weeks. Remember that shaded areas and heavy soils require less water than full-sun areas and sandy soils. When proper rooting is evident, back off on watering gradually until you get it down to approximately one inch of water per week, instead of per day.

  39. Q: When will my new lawn be ready to mow?

    Mow within 10 days of installation and bag clippings for the first few mowings. New installations are often uneven and care should be taken not to “scalp” any high spots.

  40. Q: Should I fertilize my new EMPIRE Turf lawn and if so, what kind?

    You should use a starter fertilizer that is low in Nitrogen and higher in Phosphorus and Potassium. This “transplant friendly” regimen will help reduce the shock and minimize disease.

  41. Q: Are there any other chemicals I should put on the newly installed grass, like herbicide for weeds, insecticide for pests or fungicide to prevent fungus?

    Insecticide and broad-spectrum fungicides are fine to put down on newly installed EMPIRE. Wait on any herbicide applications until the grass is rooted in or established. Putting down herbicide before establishment can be harmful to the grass.

  42. Q: How much watering should I do after I first install the lawn?

    Water your new EMPIRE lawn thoroughly after installation ensuring that both the EMPIRE is wet and that the soil is moist at a depth of three inches. This is approximately one inch of water. Repeat this watering cycle everyday for the first two to three weeks. Remember that shaded areas and heavy soils require less water than full-sun areas and sandy soils. When proper rooting is evident, back off on watering gradually until you get it down to approximately one inch of water per week, instead of per day.

  43. Q: When will my new lawn be ready to mow?

    Mow within 10 days of installation and bag clippings for the first few mowings. New installations are often uneven and care should be taken not to “scalp” any high spots.

  44. Q: Should I fertilize my new GEO Zoysia lawn and if so, what kind?

    You should use a starter fertilizer that is low in Nitrogen and higher in Phosphorus and Potassium. This “transplant friendly” regimen will help reduce the shock and minimize disease.

  45. Q: Are there any other chemicals I should put on the newly installed grass, like herbicide for weeds, insecticide for pests or fungicide to prevent fungus?

    Insecticide and broad-spectrum fungicides are fine to put down on newly installed GEO. Wait on any herbicide applications until the grass is rooted in or established. Putting down herbicide before establishment can be harmful to the grass.

  46. Q: How much watering should I do after I first install the lawn?

    Water your new GEO lawn thoroughly after installation ensuring that both the GEO is wet and that the soil is moist at a depth of three inches. This is approximately one inch of water. Repeat this watering cycle everyday for the first two to three weeks. Remember that shaded areas and heavy soils require less water than full-sun areas and sandy soils. When proper rooting is evident, back off on watering gradually until you get it down to approximately one inch of water per week, instead of per day.

  47. Q: When will my new lawn be ready to mow?

    Mow within 10 days of installation and bag clippings for the first few mowings. New installations are often uneven and care should be taken not to “scalp” any high spots.

  48. Q: Can I successfully install/grow Latitude 36 in shaded areas?

    Yes. Latitude 36 can be installed and grown in shady landscapes such as the high filtered shade of pine trees; however, Latitude 36 does need at least 3-4 hours of daily sunlight for optimum performance. If your landscape has less than 3-4 hours of daily sunlight, your may experience a decline in the overall quality of your lawn. Shade tolerance for any grass variety is dependent on several factors: the total amount of sunlight hours, the type of shade (i.e. tree, structure or filtered,) the location of the (i.e. proximity to buildings, hardscapes or water features,) soil type, fertilization and the maintenance schedule. Before a huge investment is made in placing Latitude 36 in a particular shaded area, a small sample or “test” plot should be planted to confirm success.

  49. Q: Should I fertilize my new Latitude 36 lawn and if so, what kind?

    You should use a starter fertilizer that is low in Nitrogen and higher in Phosphorus and Potassium. This “transplant friendly” regimen will help reduce the shock and minimize disease.

  50. Q: Are there any other chemicals I should put on the newly installed grass, like herbicide for weeds, insecticide for pests or fungicide to prevent fungus?

    Insecticide and broad-spectrum fungicides are fine to put down on newly installed grass. Wait on any herbicide applications until the grass is rooted in or established. Putting down herbicide before establishment can be harmful to the grass.

  51. Q: How much watering should I do after I first install the lawn?

    Water your new Latitude 36 lawn thoroughly after installation ensuring that both the Latitude 36 is wet and that the soil is moist at a depth of three inches. This is approximately one inch of water. Repeat this watering cycle everyday for the first two to three weeks. Remember that shaded areas and heavy soils require less water than full-sun areas and sandy soils. When proper rooting is evident, back off on watering gradually until you get it down to approximately one inch of water per week, instead of per day.

  52. Q: When will my new lawn be ready to mow?

    Mow within 10 days of installation and bag clippings for the first few mowings. New installations are often uneven and care should be taken not to “scalp” any high spots.

  53. Q: Can I successfully install/grow NorthBridge in shaded areas?

    Yes. NorthBridge can be installed and grown in shady landscapes such as the high filtered shade of pine trees; however, NorthBridge does need at least 3-4 hours of daily sunlight for optimum performance. If your landscape has less than 3-4 hours of daily sunlight, you may experience a decline in the overall quality of your lawn. Shade tolerance for any grass variety is dependent on several factors: the total amount of sunlight hours, the type of shade (i.e. tree, structure or filtered,) the location of the (i.e. proximity to buildings, hardscapes or water features,) soil type, fertilization and the maintenance schedule. Before a huge investment is made in placing NorthBridge in a particular shaded area, a small sample or “test” plot should be planted to confirm success.

  54. Q: Should I fertilize my new NorthBridge lawn and if so, what kind?

    You should use a starter fertilizer that is low in Nitrogen and higher in Phosphorus and Potassium. This “transplant friendly” regimen will help reduce the shock and minimize disease.

  55. Q: Are there any other chemicals I should put on the newly installed grass, like herbicide for weeds, insecticide for pests or fungicide to prevent fungus?

    Insecticide and broad-spectrum fungicides are fine to put down on newly installed grass. Wait on any herbicide applications until the grass is rooted in or established. Putting down herbicide before establishment can be harmful to the grass.

  56. Q: How much watering should I do after I first install the lawn?

    Water your new NorthBridge lawn thoroughly after installation ensuring that both the NorthBridge is wet and that the soil is moist at a depth of three inches. This is approximately one inch of water. Repeat this watering cycle everyday for the first two to three weeks. Remember that shaded areas and heavy soils require less water than full-sun areas and sandy soils. When proper rooting is evident, back off on watering gradually until you get it down to approximately one inch of water per week, instead of per day.

  57. Q: When will my new lawn be ready to mow?

    Mow within 10 days of installation and bag clippings for the first few mowings. New installations are often uneven and care should be taken not to “scalp” any high spots.

  58. Q: Should I fertilize my new Palmetto lawn and if so, what kind?

    You should use a starter fertilizer that is low in Nitrogen and higher in Phosphorus and Potassium. This “transplant friendly” regimen will help reduce the shock and minimize disease.

  59. Q: Are there any other chemicals I should put on the newly installed grass, like herbicide for weeds, insecticide for pests or fungicide to prevent fungus?

    Insecticide and broad-spectrum fungicides are fine to put down on newly installed grass. Wait on any herbicide applications until the grass is rooted in or established. Putting down herbicide before establishment can be harmful to the grass.

  60. Q: How much watering should I do after I first install the lawn?

    Water your new Palmetto lawn thoroughly after installation ensuring that both the Palmetto is wet and that the soil is moist at a depth of three inches. This is approximately one inch of water. Repeat this watering cycle everyday for the first two to three weeks. Remember that shaded areas and heavy soils require less water than full-sun areas and sandy soils. When proper rooting is evident, back off on watering gradually until you get it down to approximately one inch of water per week, instead of per day.

  61. Q: When will my new lawn be ready to mow?

    Mow within 10 days of installation and bag clippings for the first few mowings. New installations are often uneven and care should be taken not to “scalp” any high spots.

  62. Q: Should I fertilize my new Santee lawn and if so, what kind?

    You should use a starter fertilizer that is low in Nitrogen and higher in Phosphorus and Potassium. This “transplant friendly” regimen will help reduce the shock and minimize disease.

  63. Q: Are there any other chemicals I should put on the newly installed grass, like herbicide for weeds, insecticide for pests or fungicide to prevent fungus?

    Insecticide and broad-spectrum fungicides are fine to put down on newly installed grass. Wait on any herbicide applications until the grass is rooted in or established. Putting down herbicide before establishment can be harmful to the grass.

  64. Q: How much watering should I do after I first install the lawn?

    Water your new Santee lawn thoroughly after installation ensuring that both the Santee is wet and that the soil is moist at a depth of three inches. This is approximately one inch of water. Repeat this watering cycle everyday for the first two to three weeks. Remember that shaded areas and heavy soils require less water than full-sun areas and sandy soils. When proper rooting is evident, back off on watering gradually until you get it down to approximately one inch of water per week, instead of per day.

  65. Q: When will my new lawn be ready to mow?

    Mow within 10 days of installation and bag clippings for the first few mowings. New installations are often uneven and care should be taken not to “scalp” any high spots.

  66. Q: Should I fertilize my new Sapphire lawn and if so, what kind?

    You should use a starter fertilizer that is low in Nitrogen and higher in Phosphorus and Potassium. This “transplant friendly” regimen will help reduce the shock and minimize disease.

  67. Q: Are there any other chemicals I should put on the newly installed grass, like herbicide for weeds, insecticide for pests or fungicide to prevent fungus?

    Insecticide and broad-spectrum fungicides are fine to put down on newly installed grass. Wait on any herbicide applications until the grass is rooted in or established. Putting down herbicide before establishment can be harmful to the grass.

  68. Q: How much watering should I do after I first install the lawn?

    Water your new Sapphire lawn thoroughly after installation ensuring that both the Sapphire is wet and that the soil is moist at a depth of three feet. This is approximately one inch of water. Repeat this watering cycle everyday for the first two to three weeks. Remember that shaded areas and heavy soils require less water than full-sun areas and sandy soils. When proper rooting is evident, back off on watering gradually until you get it down to approximately one inch of water per week, instead of per day.

  69. Q: When will my new lawn be ready to mow?

    Mow within 10 days of installation and bag clippings for the first few mowings. New installations are often uneven and care should be taken not to “scalp” any high spots.

  70. Q: Should I fertilize my new Bella Bluegrass lawn and if so, what kind?

    You should wait about 4-6 weeks after installing your new Bella lawn to fertilize. Use a starter fertilizer that is low in Nitrogen and higher in Phosphorus and Potassium. This “transplant friendly” regimen will help reduce the shock and minimize disease.

  71. Q: Are there any other chemicals I should put on the newly installed grass, like herbicide for weeds, insecticide for pests or fungicide to prevent fungus?

    Insecticide and broad-spectrum fungicides are fine to put down on newly installed Bella. Wait on any herbicide applications until the grass is rooted in or established. Putting down herbicide before establishment can be harmful to the grass.

  72. Q: How much watering should I do after I first install the lawn?

    Water your new Bella lawn thoroughly after installation ensuring that both the Bella is wet and that the soil is moist at a depth of three inches. This is approximately one inch of water. Repeat this watering cycle everyday for the first two to three weeks. Remember that shaded areas and heavy soils require less water than full-sun areas and sandy soils. When proper rooting is evident, back off on watering gradually until you get it down to approximately one inch of water per week, instead of per day.

  73. Q: When will my new lawn be ready to mow?

    Mow within two weeks after installation. New installations are often uneven and care should be taken not to “scalp” any high spots.

  74. Q: When will my new lawn be ready to mow?

    Mow within two weeks after installation. New installations are often uneven and care should be taken not to “scalp” any high spots.

  75. Q: Should I fertilize my new HGT lawn and if so, what kind?

    You should wait about 4-6 weeks after installing your new HGT lawn to fertilize. Use a starter fertilizer that is low in Nitrogen and higher in Phosphorus and Potassium. This “transplant friendly” regimen will help reduce the shock and minimize disease.

  76. Q: Are there any other chemicals I should put on the newly installed grass, like herbicide for weeds, insecticide for pests or fungicide to prevent fungus?

    Insecticide and broad-spectrum fungicides are fine to put down on newly installed HGT. Wait on any herbicide applications until the grass is rooted in or established. Putting down herbicide before establishment can be harmful to the grass.

  77. Q: How much watering should I do after I first install the lawn?

    Water your new HGT lawn thoroughly after installation ensuring that both the HGT is wet and that the soil is moist at a depth of three inches. This is approximately one inch of water. Repeat this watering cycle everyday for the first two to three weeks. Remember that shaded areas and heavy soils require less water than full-sun areas and sandy soils. When proper rooting is evident, back off on watering gradually until you get it down to approximately one inch of water per week, instead of per day.

  78. Q: When will my new lawn be ready to mow?

    Mow within two weeks after installation. New installations are often uneven and care should be taken not to “scalp” any high spots.

  79. Q: Should I fertilize my new RPR lawn and if so, what kind?

    You should wait about 4-6 weeks after installing your new RPR lawn to fertilize. Use a starter fertilizer that is low in Nitrogen and higher in Phosphorus and Potassium. This “transplant friendly” regimen will help reduce the shock and minimize disease.

  80. Q: Are there any other chemicals I should put on the newly installed grass, like herbicide for weeds, insecticide for pests or fungicide to prevent fungus?

    Insecticide and broad-spectrum fungicides are fine to put down on newly installed RPR. Wait on any herbicide applications until the grass is rooted in or established. Putting down herbicide before establishment can be harmful to the grass.

  81. Q: How much watering should I do after I first install the lawn?

    Water your new RPR lawn thoroughly after installation ensuring that both the RPR is wet and that the soil is moist at a depth of three inches. This is approximately one inch of water. Repeat this watering cycle everyday for the first two to three weeks. Remember that shaded areas and heavy soils require less water than full-sun areas and sandy soils. When proper rooting is evident, back off on watering gradually until you get it down to approximately one inch of water per week, instead of per day.

  82. Q: When will my new lawn be ready to mow?

    Mow within two weeks after installation. New installations are often uneven and care should be taken not to “scalp” any high spots.

  83. Q: How much watering should I do after I first install the lawn?

    Water your new lawn thoroughly after installation ensuring that both the grass is wet and that the soil is moist at a depth of three feet. This is approximately one inch of water. Repeat this watering cycle everyday for the first two to three weeks. Remember that shaded areas and heavy soils require less water than full-sun areas and sandy soils. When proper rooting is evident, back off on watering gradually until you get it down to approximately one inch of water per week. Keep in mind that watering requirements vary greatly by your local climate and soil type. If you live in an arid climate or have a sandy soil, the water will filter much more quickly than a humid area with clay. We always recommend contacting your local University Extension agent to get an idea of typical water requirements in your area. For more information on watering visit our Turfgrass Water Needs page.

  84. Q: When will my new lawn be ready to mow?

    We generally recommend mowing for the first time at about 10 days from the installation. Bag clippings for the first few mowings. New installations are often uneven and care should be taken not to “scalp” any high spots.

  85. Q: Should I fertilize my new lawn and if so, what should I use?

    You should use a starter fertilizer that is low in Nitrogen and higher in Phosphorus and Potassium. This “transplant friendly” regimen will help reduce the shock and minimize disease.

  86. Q: Are there any other chemicals I should put on newly installed grass, like herbicide for weeds, insecticide for pests, or fungicide to prevent fungus?

    Insecticide and broad-spectrum fungicides are fine to put down on newly installed grass. Wait on any herbicide applications until the grass is rooted in or established. Putting down herbicide before establishment can be harmful to the grass and is not recommended. As a general rule, when you can pull on the grass and the piece of sod does not come up from the soil you are safe to begin treating the lawn.

  87. Q: Will my grass do well in full sun?

    Yes, all turf varieties thrive in full sun and are produced on the farm in full sun. Some varieties such as our St. Augustine varieties and Geo Zoysia perform well in partial shade, but will always grow best in full sun.

  88. Q: You recommend lowering the mower and giving my grass a “buzz cut” to mow off the thatch layer once per year. Should I do this with a new lawn?

    No. Your new turf shouldn’t have much thatch since it is coming from a turf farm, so this method of de-thatching is not needed. Plus, your new lawn is in a “shocked” state, having just had roots cut at the sod farm. It will be trying to send down new roots into the soil. Scalping the lawn will add extra stress to an already stressed turfgrass. You should wait until your lawn is mature, approximately one year old before beginning to “scalp” the lawn the first mowing of spring.

  89. Maintenance

  90. Q: Should I fertilize my new Captiva lawn and if so, what kind?

    You should use a starter fertilizer that is low in Nitrogen and higher in Phosphorus and Potassium. This “transplant friendly” regimen will help reduce the shock and minimize disease.

  91. Q: What height should I mow my Captiva lawn?

    You should maintain your Captiva lawn optimally between 1.5 – 2.5 inches. Heights above 2.5 inches will begin to reduce quality and encourage thatch buildup. Thatch can lead to grass disease and creates the perfect environment for insects.

  92. Q: How much water does my Captiva lawn need?

    An established Captiva lawn needs approximately 1 inch of water per week, either from natural rainfall or irrigation. Captiva in shady areas will not need as much water. However, for soils with heavy sand content, it’s possible that the grass will need more than 1 inch per week because the soil wont hold enough moisture.

  93. Q: What kind of fertilizer do you recommend and when should I put it down?

    A local lawn care store in your area might have some specific recommendations that they know work well with Captiva, but generically, we recommend a fertilizer in the spring with a 1-0-1 ratio (like a 15-0-15) and in the fall, a fertilizer with a 1-0-2 ratio (like an 8-0-16.) Again the numbers are Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium. These are generic recommendations that are meant to work for a wide area, from California to Florida. Again, it’s always good to check with a local lawn care professional about specific fertilizers for Captiva in your particular climate and soil conditions. We always recommend getting your soil tested every couple of years to know if you need any amendments. The health of the grass starts in the soil.

  94. Q: You say Captiva needs about 1 inch of water per week during the active growing season. Is this always the case?

    This is primarily the case but it does depend on what soil type you have. Some very sandy soils that don’t hold water well may need more than one inch per week. Turfgrass health always begins with the soil you have and we recommend you get a soil analysis done every couple of years to know if you need to make any amendments. There are steps you can take to help your soil retain more water.

  95. Q: Should I fertilize my new Celebration lawn and if so, what kind?

    You should use a starter fertilizer that is low in Nitrogen and higher in Phosphorus and Potassium. This “transplant friendly” regimen will help reduce the shock and minimize disease.

  96. Q: What height should I mow my Celebration lawn?

    You should maintain your Celebration lawn optimally between .5 – 1 inch. Heights above 1 inch will begin to reduce quality and encourage thatch buildup. Thatch can lead to grass disease and creates the perfect environment for insects.

  97. Q: How much water does my Celebration lawn need?

    An established Celebration lawn needs approximately 1 inch of water per week, either from natural rainfall or irrigation. Celebration in shady areas will not need as much water. However, for soils with heavy sand content, it’s possible that the grass will need more than 1 inch per week because the soil wont hold enough moisture.

  98. Q: What kind of fertilizer do you recommend and when should I put it down?

    A local lawn care store in your area might have some specific recommendations that they know work well with Celebration, but generically, we recommend a fertilizer in the spring with a 1-0-1 ratio (like a 15-0-15) and in the fall, a fertilizer with a 1-0-2 ratio (like an 8-0-16.) Again the numbers are Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium. These are generic recommendations that are meant to work for a wide area, from California to Florida. Again, it’s always good to check with a local lawn care professional about specific fertilizers for Celebration in your particular climate and soil conditions. We always recommend getting your soil tested every couple of years to know if you need any amendments. The health of the grass starts in the soil.

  99. Q: My lawn company tells me my Celebration lawn needs to be de-thatched? What is this?

    Celebration has a dense, tight canopy which is a good thing because it helps to choke-out weeds and promote overall health. However, because of this dense canopy, new grass grows over the old which becomes thatch (the dead brown grass that is under the healthy green top.) De-thatching is a good idea. One way to avoid having to use an actual de-thatching machine is to “scalp” your Celebration lawn once per year. This should be done to mature Celebration lawns only. Usually the best time to do this is the first mowing of the year when chances for the last freeze are over and Celebration is ready to come out of dormancy. Drop you mower a notch and cut that thatch layer off and either bag or rake away the clippings. This will make your Celebration green up faster and will take care of most of the thatch for the rest of the growing season.

  100. Q: You say Celebration needs about 1 inch of water per week during the active growing season. Is this always the case?

    This is primarily the case but it does depend on what soil type you have. Some very sandy soils that don’t hold water well may need more than one inch per week. Turfgrass health always begins with the soil you have and we recommend you get a soil analysis done every couple of years to know if you need to make any amendments. There are steps you can take to help your soil retain more water.

  101. Q: What height should I mow my Covington lawn?

    You should maintain your Covington lawn optimally between 1.5 – 2.5 inches. Heights above 2.5 inches will begin to reduce quality and encourage thatch buildup. Thatch can lead to grass disease and creates the perfect environment for insects.

  102. Q: How much water does my Covington lawn need?

    An established Covington lawn needs approximately 1 inch of water per week, either from natural rainfall or irrigation. Covington in shady areas will not need as much water. However, for soils with heavy sand content, it’s possible that the grass will need more than 1 inch per week because the soil wont hold enough moisture.

  103. Q: What kind of fertilizer do you recommend and when should I put it down?

    A local lawn care store in your area might have some specific recommendations that they know work well with Covington, but generically, we recommend a fertilizer in the spring with a 1-0-1 ratio (like a 15-0-15) and in the fall, a fertilizer with a 1-0-2 ratio (like an 8-0-16.) Again the numbers are Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium. These are generic recommendations that are meant to work for a wide area, from California to Florida. Again, it’s always good to check with a local lawn care professional about specific fertilizers for Covington in your particular climate and soil conditions. We always recommend getting your soil tested every couple of years to know if you need any amendments. The health of the grass starts in the soil.

  104. Q: You say Covington needs about 1 inch of water per week during the active growing season. Is this always the case?

    This is primarily the case but it does depend on what soil type you have. Some very sandy soils that don’t hold water well may need more than one inch per week. Turfgrass health always begins with the soil you have and we recommend you get a soil analysis done every couple of years to know if you need to make any amendments. There are steps you can take to help your soil retain more water.

  105. Q: What height should I mow my Discovery lawn?

    You should maintain your Discovery lawn optimally between .5 – 1 inch. Heights above 1 inch will begin to reduce quality and encourage thatch buildup. Thatch can lead to grass disease and creates the perfect environment for insects. It is possible to wait three to four weeks between each mowing, depending on the height you prefer to keep the grass.

  106. Q: How much water does my Discovery lawn need?

    An established Discovery lawn needs approximately 1 inch of water per week, either from natural rainfall or irrigation. Discovery in shady areas will not need as much water. However, for soils with heavy sand content, it’s possible that the grass will need more than 1 inch per week because the soil wont hold enough moisture.

  107. Q: What kind of fertilizer do you recommend and when should I put it down?

    A local lawn care store in your area might have some specific recommendations that they know work well with Discovery, but generically, we recommend a fertilizer in the spring with a 1-0-1 ratio (like a 15-0-15) and in the fall, a fertilizer with a 1-0-2 ratio (like an 8-0-16.) Again the numbers are Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium. These are generic recommendations that are meant to work for a wide area, from California to Florida. Again, it’s always good to check with a local lawn care professional about specific fertilizers for Discovery in your particular climate and soil conditions. We always recommend getting your soil tested every couple of years to know if you need any amendments. The health of the grass starts in the soil.

  108. Q: My lawn company tells me my Discovery lawn needs to be de-thatched? What is this?

    Discovery has a dense, tight canopy which is a good thing because it helps to choke-out weeds and promote overall health. However, because of this dense canopy, new grass grows over the old which becomes thatch (the dead brown grass that is under the healthy green top.) De-thatching is a good idea. One way to avoid having to use an actual de-thatching machine is to “scalp” your Discovery lawn once per year. This should be done to mature Discovery lawns only. Usually the best time to do this is the first mowing of the year when chances for the last freeze are over and Discovery is ready to come out of dormancy. Drop you mower a notch and cut that thatch layer off and either bag or rake away the clippings. This will make your Discovery green up faster and will take care of most of the thatch for the rest of the growing season.

  109. Q: You say Discovery needs about 1 inch of water per week during the active growing season. Is this always the case?

    This is primarily the case but it does depend on what soil type you have. Some very sandy soils that don’t hold water well may need more than one inch per week. Turfgrass health always begins with the soil you have and we recommend you get a soil analysis done every couple of years to know if you need to make any amendments. There are steps you can take to help your soil retain more water.

  110. Q: You recommend lowering the mower and giving the EMPIRE Turf a “buzz cut” to mow off the thatch layer once per year. Should I do this with a new EMPIRE Turf lawn?

    No. Your EMPIRE Turf lawn shouldn’t have much thatch since it is coming from a turf farm, so this method of de-thatching is not needed. Plus, your new lawn is in a “shocked” state, having just had roots cut at the sod farm. It will be trying to send down new roots into the soil. Scalping the lawn will add extra stress to an already stressed turfgrass. You should wait until your lawn is mature, approximately one year old before beginning to “scalp” the lawn the first mowing of spring.

  111. Q: What height should I mow my EMPIRE Turf lawn?

    You should maintain your EMPIRE lawn optimally between 1 – 2 ½ inches. Heights above 2 ½ inches will begin to reduce turf quality and encourage thatch buildup. Thatch can lead to turfgrass disease and creates the perfect environment for insects.

  112. Q: How much water does my EMPIRE Turf lawn need?

    An established EMPIRE Turf lawn needs approximately 1 inch of water per week, either from natural rainfall or irrigation. EMPIRE in shady areas will not need as much water. However, for soils with heavy sand content, it’s possible that the grass will need more than 1 inch per week because the soil wont hold enough moisture.

  113. Q: What kind of fertilizer do you recommend and when should I put it down?

    A local lawn care store in your area might have some specific recommendations that they know work well with EMPIRE, but generically, we recommend a fertilizer in the spring with a 1-0-1 ratio (like a 15-0-15) and in the fall, a fertilizer with a 1-0-2 ratio (like an 8-0-16.) Again the numbers are Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium. These are generic recommendations that are meant to work for a wide area, from California to Florida. Again, it’s always good to check with a local lawn care professional about specific fertilizers for EMPIRE in your particular climate and soil conditions. We always recommend getting your soil tested every couple of years to know if you need any amendments. The health of the grass starts in the soil.

  114. Q: My lawn company tells me my EMPIRE lawn needs to be de-thatched? What is this?

    EMPIRE Turf has a dense, tight canopy which is a good thing because it helps to choke-out weeds and promote overall turf health. However, because of this dense canopy, new grass grows over the old which becomes thatch (the dead brown grass that is under the healthy green top.) De-thatching is a good idea. One way to avoid having to use an actual de-thatching machine is to “scalp” your EMPIRE Turf lawn once per year. This should be done to mature EMPIRE lawns only. Usually the best time to do this is the first mowing of the year when chances for the last freeze are over and EMPIRE is ready to come out of dormancy. Drop you mower a notch and cut that thatch layer off and either bag or rake away the clippings. This will make your EMPIRE green up faster and will take care of most of the thatch for the rest of the growing season.

  115. Q: You say EMPIRE Turf needs about 1 inch of water per week during the active growing season. Is this always the case?

    This is primarily the case but it does depend on what soil type you have. Some very sandy soils that don’t hold water well may need more than one inch per week. Turfgrass health always begins with the soil you have and we recommend you get a soil analysis done every couple of years to know if you need to make any amendments. There are steps you can take to help your soil retain more water.

  116. Q: Does EMPIRE Turf use less water than other grasses?

    EMPIRE Turf doesn’t use less water than other grasses. What makes it more drought-hardy is that, when it stops getting water it will go into dormancy and not die like other grass varieties can. When the water returns, EMPIRE will green back up in a number of days. EMPIRE Turf will probably need about 1 inch of water per week in the active growing season either from irrigation or natural rainfall.

  117. Q: You recommend lowering the mower and giving the GEO Zoysia a “buzz cut” to mow off the thatch layer once per year. Should I do this with a new GEO Zoysia lawn?

    No. Your GEO Zoysia lawn shouldn’t have much thatch since it is coming from a turf farm, so this method of de-thatching is not needed. Plus, your new lawn is in a “shocked” state, having just had roots cut at the sod farm. It will be trying to send down new roots into the soil. Scalping the lawn will add extra stress to an already stressed turfgrass. You should wait until your lawn is mature, approximately one year old before beginning to “scalp” the lawn the first mowing of spring.

  118. Q: What height should I mow my GEO Zoysia lawn?

    You should maintain your GEO lawn optimally between 1 – 2 ½ inches. Heights above 2 ½ inches will begin to reduce turf quality and encourage thatch buildup. Thatch can lead to turfgrass disease and creates the perfect environment for insects.

  119. Q: How much water does my GEO Zoysia lawn need?

    An established GEO Zoysia lawn needs approximately 1 inch of water per week, either from natural rainfall or irrigation. GEO in shady areas will not need as much water. However, for soils with heavy sand content, it’s possible that the grass will need more than 1 inch per week because the soil wont hold enough moisture.

  120. Q: What kind of fertilizer do you recommend and when should I put it down?

    A local lawn care store in your area might have some specific recommendations that they know work well with GEO, but generically, we recommend a fertilizer in the spring with a 1-0-1 ratio (like a 15-0-15) and in the fall, a fertilizer with a 1-0-2 ratio (like an 8-0-16.) Again the numbers are Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium. These are generic recommendations that are meant to work for a wide area, from California to Florida. Again, it’s always good to check with a local lawn care professional about specific fertilizers for GEO in your particular climate and soil conditions. We always recommend getting your soil tested every couple of years to know if you need any amendments. The health of the grass starts in the soil.

  121. Q: My lawn company tells me my GEO lawn needs to be de-thatched? What is this?

    GEO Zoysia has a dense, tight canopy which is a good thing because it helps to choke-out weeds and promote overall turf health. However, because of this dense canopy, new grass grows over the old which becomes thatch (the dead brown grass that is under the healthy green top.) De-thatching is a good idea. One way to avoid having to use an actual de-thatching machine is to “scalp” your GEO Zoysia lawn once per year. This should be done to mature GEO lawns only. Usually the best time to do this is the first mowing of the year when chances for the last freeze are over and GEO is ready to come out of dormancy. Drop you mower a notch and cut that thatch layer off and either bag or rake away the clippings. This will make your GEO green up faster and will take care of most of the thatch for the rest of the growing season.

  122. Q: You say GEO Zoysia needs about 1 inch of water per week during the active growing season. Is this always the case?

    This is primarily the case but it does depend on what soil type you have. Some very sandy soils that don’t hold water well may need more than one inch per week. Turfgrass health always begins with the soil you have and we recommend you get a soil analysis done every couple of years to know if you need to make any amendments. There are steps you can take to help your soil retain more water.

  123. Q: You say GEO Zoysia needs about 1 inch of water per week during the active growing season. Is this always the case?

    This is primarily the case but it does depend on what soil type you have. Some very sandy soils that don’t hold water well may need more than one inch per week. Turfgrass health always begins with the soil you have and we recommend you get a soil analysis done every couple of years to know if you need to make any amendments. There are steps you can take to help your soil retain more water.

  124. Q: What height should I mow my Latitude 36 lawn?

    You should maintain your Latitude 36 lawn optimally between .5 – 1 inch. Heights above 1 inch will begin to reduce quality and encourage thatch buildup. Thatch can lead to grass disease and creates the perfect environment for insects.

  125. Q: How much water does my Latitude 36 lawn need?

    An established Latitude 36 lawn needs approximately 1 inch of water per week, either from natural rainfall or irrigation. Latitude 36 in shady areas will not need as much water. However, for soils with heavy sand content, it’s possible that the grass will need more than 1 inch per week because the soil wont hold enough moisture.

  126. Q: What kind of fertilizer do you recommend and when should I put it down?

    A local lawn care store in your area might have some specific recommendations that they know work well with Latitude 36, but generically, we recommend a fertilizer in the spring with a 1-0-1 ratio (like a 15-0-15) and in the fall, a fertilizer with a 1-0-2 ratio (like an 8-0-16.) Again the numbers are Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium. These are generic recommendations that are meant to work for a wide area, from California to Florida. Again, it’s always good to check with a local lawn care professional about specific fertilizers for Latitude 36 in your particular climate and soil conditions. We always recommend getting your soil tested every couple of years to know if you need any amendments. The health of the grass starts in the soil.

  127. Q: My lawn company tells me my Latitude 36 lawn needs to be de-thatched? What is this?

    Latitude 36 has a dense, tight canopy which is a good thing because it helps to choke-out weeds and promote overall health. However, because of this dense canopy, new grass grows over the old which becomes thatch (the dead brown grass that is under the healthy green top.) De-thatching is a good idea. One way to avoid having to use an actual de-thatching machine is to “scalp” your Latitude 36 lawn once per year. This should be done to mature Latitude 36 lawns only. Usually the best time to do this is the first mowing of the year when chances for the last freeze are over and Latitude 36 is ready to come out of dormancy. Drop you mower a notch and cut that thatch layer off and either bag or rake away the clippings. This will make your Latitude 36 green up faster and will take care of most of the thatch for the rest of the growing season.

  128. Q: You say Latitude 36 needs about 1 inch of water per week during the active growing season. Is this always the case?

    This is primarily the case but it does depend on what soil type you have. Some very sandy soils that don’t hold water well may need more than one inch per week. Turfgrass health always begins with the soil you have and we recommend you get a soil analysis done every couple of years to know if you need to make any amendments. There are steps you can take to help your soil retain more water.

  129. Q: What height should I mow my NorthBridge lawn?

    You should maintain your NorthBridge lawn optimally between .5 – 1 inch. Heights above 1 inch will begin to reduce quality and encourage thatch buildup. Thatch can lead to grass disease and creates the perfect environment for insects.

  130. Q: How much water does my NorthBridge lawn need?

    An established NorthBridge lawn needs approximately 1 inch of water per week, either from natural rainfall or irrigation. NorthBridge in shady areas will not need as much water. However, for soils with heavy sand content, it’s possible that the grass will need more than 1 inch per week because the soil wont hold enough moisture.

  131. Q: What kind of fertilizer do you recommend and when should I put it down?

    A local lawn care store in your area might have some specific recommendations that they know work well with NorthBridge, but generically, we recommend a fertilizer in the spring with a 1-0-1 ratio (like a 15-0-15) and in the fall, a fertilizer with a 1-0-2 ratio (like an 8-0-16.) Again the numbers are Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium. These are generic recommendations that are meant to work for a wide area, from California to Florida. Again, it’s always good to check with a local lawn care professional about specific fertilizers for NorthBridge in your particular climate and soil conditions. We always recommend getting your soil tested every couple of years to know if you need any amendments. The health of the grass starts in the soil.

  132. Q: My lawn company tells me my NorthBridge lawn needs to be de-thatched? What is this?

    NorthBridge has a dense, tight canopy which is a good thing because it helps to choke-out weeds and promote overall health. However, because of this dense canopy, new grass grows over the old which becomes thatch (the dead brown grass that is under the healthy green top.) De-thatching is a good idea. One way to avoid having to use an actual de-thatching machine is to “scalp” your NorthBridge lawn once per year. This should be done to mature NorthBridge lawns only. Usually the best time to do this is the first mowing of the year when chances for the last freeze are over and NorthBridge is ready to come out of dormancy. Drop you mower a notch and cut that thatch layer off and either bag or rake away the clippings. This will make your NorthBridge green up faster and will take care of most of the thatch for the rest of the growing season.

  133. Q: You say NorthBridge needs about 1 inch of water per week during the active growing season. Is this always the case?

    This is primarily the case but it does depend on what soil type you have. Some very sandy soils that don’t hold water well may need more than one inch per week. Turfgrass health always begins with the soil you have and we recommend you get a soil analysis done every couple of years to know if you need to make any amendments. There are steps you can take to help your soil retain more water.

  134. Q: What height should I mow my Palmetto lawn?

    You should maintain your Palmetto lawn optimally between 1.5 – 2.5 inches. Heights above 2.5 inches will begin to reduce quality and encourage thatch buildup. Thatch can lead to grass disease and creates the perfect environment for insects.

  135. Q: How much water does my Palmetto lawn need?

    An established Palmetto lawn needs approximately 1 inch of water per week, either from natural rainfall or irrigation. Palmetto in shady areas will not need as much water. However, for soils with heavy sand content, it’s possible that the grass will need more than 1 inch per week because the soil wont hold enough moisture.

  136. Q: What kind of fertilizer do you recommend and when should I put it down?

    A local lawn care store in your area might have some specific recommendations that they know work well with Palmetto, but generically, we recommend a fertilizer in the spring with a 1-0-1 ratio (like a 15-0-15) and in the fall, a fertilizer with a 1-0-2 ratio (like an 8-0-16.) Again the numbers are Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium. These are generic recommendations that are meant to work for a wide area, from California to Florida. Again, it’s always good to check with a local lawn care professional about specific fertilizers for Palmetto in your particular climate and soil conditions. We always recommend getting your soil tested every couple of years to know if you need any amendments. The health of the grass starts in the soil.

  137. Q: You say Palmetto needs about 1 inch of water per week during the active growing season. Is this always the case?

    This is primarily the case but it does depend on what soil type you have. Some very sandy soils that don’t hold water well may need more than one inch per week. Turfgrass health always begins with the soil you have and we recommend you get a soil analysis done every couple of years to know if you need to make any amendments. There are steps you can take to help your soil retain more water.

  138. Q: What height should I mow my Santee lawn?

    You should maintain your Santee lawn optimally between 1.5 – 2.5 inches. Heights above 2.5 inches will begin to reduce quality and encourage thatch buildup. Thatch can lead to grass disease and creates the perfect environment for insects.

  139. Q: How much water does my Santee lawn need?

    An established Santee lawn needs approximately 1 inch of water per week, either from natural rainfall or irrigation. Santee in shady areas will not need as much water. However, for soils with heavy sand content, it’s possible that the grass will need more than 1 inch per week because the soil wont hold enough moisture.

  140. Q: What kind of fertilizer do you recommend and when should I put it down?

    A local lawn care store in your area might have some specific recommendations that they know work well with Santee, but generically, we recommend a fertilizer in the spring with a 1-0-1 ratio (like a 15-0-15) and in the fall, a fertilizer with a 1-0-2 ratio (like an 8-0-16.) Again the numbers are Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium. These are generic recommendations that are meant to work for a wide area, from California to Florida. Again, it’s always good to check with a local lawn care professional about specific fertilizers for Santee in your particular climate and soil conditions. We always recommend getting your soil tested every couple of years to know if you need any amendments. The health of the grass starts in the soil.

  141. Q: You say Santee needs about 1 inch of water per week during the active growing season. Is this always the case?

    This is primarily the case but it does depend on what soil type you have. Some very sandy soils that don’t hold water well may need more than one inch per week. Turfgrass health always begins with the soil you have and we recommend you get a soil analysis done every couple of years to know if you need to make any amendments. There are steps you can take to help your soil retain more water.

  142. Q: What height should I mow my Sapphire lawn?

    You should maintain your Sapphire lawn optimally between 1.5 – 2.5 inches. Heights above 2.5 inches will begin to reduce quality and encourage thatch buildup. Thatch can lead to grass disease and creates the perfect environment for insects.

  143. Q: How much water does my Sapphire lawn need?

    An established Sapphire lawn needs approximately 1 inch of water per week, either from natural rainfall or irrigation. Sapphire in shady areas will not need as much water. However, for soils with heavy sand content, it’s possible that the grass will need more than 1 inch per week because the soil wont hold enough moisture.

  144. Q: What kind of fertilizer do you recommend and when should I put it down?

    A local lawn care store in your area might have some specific recommendations that they know work well with Sapphire, but generically, we recommend a fertilizer in the spring with a 1-0-1 ratio (like a 15-0-15) and in the fall, a fertilizer with a 1-0-2 ratio (like an 8-0-16.) Again the numbers are Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium. These are generic recommendations that are meant to work for a wide area, from California to Florida. Again, it’s always good to check with a local lawn care professional about specific fertilizers for Sapphire in your particular climate and soil conditions. We always recommend getting your soil tested every couple of years to know if you need any amendments. The health of the grass starts in the soil.

  145. Q: You say Sapphire needs about 1 inch of water per week during the active growing season. Is this always the case?

    This is primarily the case but it does depend on what soil type you have. Some very sandy soils that don’t hold water well may need more than one inch per week. Turfgrass health always begins with the soil you have and we recommend you get a soil analysis done every couple of years to know if you need to make any amendments. There are steps you can take to help your soil retain more water.

  146. Q: How do you maintain Sunday on the golf course?

    One of the key features of Sunday is its ability to be maintained like a dwarf while delivering Ultra-Dwarf performance. Sunday can be mowed as low as .08” for tournament play with stimpmeter readings as high as 11.

  147. Q: What height should I mow my Bella Bluegrass lawn?

    You should maintain your Bella lawn optimally between 2 – 3 inches. Heights above 3 inches will begin to reduce turf quality and encourage thatch buildup. Thatch can lead to turfgrass disease and creates the perfect environment for insects.

  148. Q: What height should I mow my Bella Bluegrass lawn?

    You should maintain your Bella lawn optimally between 2 – 3 inches. Heights above 3 inches will begin to reduce turf quality and encourage thatch buildup. Thatch can lead to turfgrass disease and creates the perfect environment for insects.

  149. Q: How much water does my Bella Bluegrass lawn need?

    An established Bella Bluegrass lawn needs approximately 1 inch of water per week during the active growing season, either from natural rainfall or irrigation. Bella in shady areas will not need as much water. However, for soils with heavy sand content, it’s possible that the grass will need more than 1 inch per week because the soil wont hold enough moisture.

  150. Q: What kind of fertilizer do you recommend and when should I put it down?

    A local lawn care store in your area might have some specific recommendations that they know work well with Bella, but generically, we recommend a fertilizer in the spring with a 1-0-1 ratio (like a 15-0-15) and in the fall, a fertilizer with a 1-0-2 ratio (like an 8-0-16.) Again the numbers are Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium. These are generic recommendations that are meant to work for a wide area. Again, it’s always good to check with a local lawn care professional about specific fertilizers for Bella in your particular climate and soil conditions. We always recommend getting your soil tested every couple of years to know if you need any amendments. The health of the grass starts in the soil. If you choose to fertilize in the summer months, use only products that are low in nitrogen and slow release. Products containing iron will enhance color.

  151. Q: What height should I mow my HGT lawn?

    You should maintain your HGT lawn optimally between 2 – 3 inches. Heights above 3 inches will begin to reduce turf quality and encourage thatch buildup.

  152. Q: How much water does my HGT lawn need?

    An established HGT lawn needs approximately 1 inch of water per week during the active growing season, either from natural rainfall or irrigation. HGT in shady areas will not need as much water. However, for soils with heavy sand content, it’s possible that the grass will need more than 1 inch per week because the soil wont hold enough moisture.

  153. Q: What kind of fertilizer do you recommend and when should I put it down?

    A local lawn care store in your area might have some specific recommendations that they know work well with HGT, but generically, we recommend a fertilizer in the spring with a 1-0-1 ratio (like a 15-0-15) and in the fall, a fertilizer with a 1-0-2 ratio (like an 8-0-16.) Again the numbers are Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium. These are generic recommendations that are meant to work for a wide area. Again, it’s always good to check with a local lawn care professional about specific fertilizers for HGT in your particular climate and soil conditions. We always recommend getting your soil tested every couple of years to know if you need any amendments. The health of the grass starts in the soil. If you choose to fertilize in the summer months, use only products that are low in nitrogen and slow release. Products containing iron will enhance color.

  154. Q: What height should I mow my RPR lawn?

    You should maintain your RPR lawn optimally between .5 – 2 inches. Heights above 2 inches will begin to reduce turf quality and encourage thatch buildup. Thatch can lead to turfgrass disease and creates the perfect environment for insects.

  155. Q: How much water does my RPR lawn need?

    An established RPR lawn needs approximately 1 inch of water per week during the active growing season, either from natural rainfall or irrigation. RPR in shady areas will not need as much water. However, for soils with heavy sand content, it’s possible that the grass will need more than 1 inch per week because the soil wont hold enough moisture.

  156. Q: What kind of fertilizer do you recommend and when should I put it down?

    A local lawn care store in your area might have some specific recommendations that they know work well with RPR, but generically, we recommend a fertilizer in the spring with a 1-0-1 ratio (like a 15-0-15) and in the fall, a fertilizer with a 1-0-2 ratio (like an 8-0-16.) Again the numbers are Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium. These are generic recommendations that are meant to work for a wide area. Again, it’s always good to check with a local lawn care professional about specific fertilizers for RPR in your particular climate and soil conditions. We always recommend getting your soil tested every couple of years to know if you need any amendments. The health of the grass starts in the soil. If you choose to fertilize in the summer months, use only products that are low in nitrogen and slow release. Products containing iron will enhance color.

  157. Q: How much water does my established lawn need?

    An established lawn needs approximately 1" of water per week either from natural rainfall or irrigation. Shady areas will not require as much water as the areas in full sun. Your soil type and climate will also affect the amount of water your lawn needs. Sandy soils or arid climates will require more water than areas with clay soils and high humidity.

  158. Q: What kind of fertilizer do you recommend and when should I put it down?

    A local lawn care store in your area might have some specific recommendations that they know work well with your grass variety, but generically, we recommend a fertilizer in the spring with a 1-0-1 ratio (like a 15-0-15) and in the fall, a fertilizer with a 1-0-2 ratio (like an 8-0-16.) Again the numbers are Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium. These are generic recommendations that are meant to work for a wide area, from California to Florida. Again, it’s always good to check with a local lawn care professional about specific fertilizers best suited for your particular climate and soil conditions. We always recommend getting your soil tested each spring to know whether you need to make any amendments.

  159. Q: How high should I mow my grass and how often should I mow?

    On each of our grass pages, we list our recommended range of cut height. As a general rule, we recommend keeping the grass at the lower end of the range in the cooler months to and higher end of the range in the warmer months for best results. In the winter your lawn needs less nutrients, less water, and less maintenance so keeping it tight will help it come out strong in the spring. During the heat of summer the extra blade length allows the leaf to store more water and reduces the heat in the soil. University research has also shown that a longer leaf blade leads to deeper roots allowing the plant to access more water. However, keeping the leaf too long provides a perfect environment for insects, thatch, and fungus so balance is always necessary. Most lawns will require mowing every 7-14 days during the growing season and once a month in the off season, depending on your area and the variety chosen. Be sure to never cut more than 1/3 of the blade at time to avoid scalping.

  160. Varieties

  161. Q: Does Captiva stay green year-round?

    No. Captiva is a warm-season grass variety meaning it will go into dormancy when the weather turns colder in fall and winter. The duration will depend on a number of factors like your location, rainfall amounts, etc.

  162. Q: Is Captiva resistant to pet urine?

    No grass is completely immune to pet urine. There are supplements on the market now that can be added to your pet’s food to help neutralize the high pH levels in urine that can damage grass. However, we haven’t tried these and aren’t sure of their effectiveness. They make a wide variety of different varieties that you can find at your local pet store or online.

  163. Q: If I put Captiva in a lawn and the neighbor has another grass type, will Captiva take over their grass?

    As a St. Augustine grass, Captiva spreads with above ground runners (called stolons) only. If Captiva begins to encroach into a neighbors yard, you will be able to see and stop it. However, Captiva is not aggressive and this should not be a problem.

  164. Q: Does Captiva like full sun?

    Captiva, like all grasses, loves full sunlight. Remember when Captiva and other grasses are grown on sod farms, there isn’t a tree anywhere near the fields to provide shade. Captiva and other grasses will perform in sunlight. It is shade that causes issues for grass.

  165. Q: Do chinch bugs infest Captiva?

    No, Captiva is the only St. Augustine grass on the market today with resistance to the southern chinch bug variety. However, it is recommended that you still apply an insecticide a few times per year to ward off the insects adaptation to this variety.

  166. Q: Does Celebration stay green year-round?

    No. Celebration is a warm-season grass variety meaning it will go into dormancy when the weather turns colder in fall and winter. The duration will depend on a number of factors like your location, rainfall amounts, etc.

  167. Q: Is Celebration resistant to pet urine?

    No grass is immune to the effects pet urine. What we can say is that Celebration is one of the fastest spreading grass varieties in the world and will recover quicker than other grasses, even other bermudas. There are supplements on the market now that can be added to your pet’s food to help neutralize the high pH levels in urine that can damage grass. However, we haven’t tried these and aren’t sure of their effectiveness. They make a wide variety of different varieties that you can find at your local pet store or online.

  168. Q: If I put Celebration in a lawn and the neighbor has another grass type, will Celebration take over their grass

    Celebration is very aggressive variety that spreads with both above ground stolons and below ground rhizomes. It can encroach into other yards if not maintained properly.

  169. Q: Does Celebration use less water than other grasses?

    Celebration doesn’t use less water than other grasses. What makes it more drought-hardy is that, when it stops getting water it will go into dormancy and not die like other grass varieties can. When the water returns, Celebration will green back up in a number of days. Celebration will probably need about 1 inch of water per week in the active growing season either from irrigation or natural rainfall.

  170. Q: Does Celebration like full sun?

    Celebration, like all grasses, loves full sunlight. Remember when Celebration and other grasses are grown on sod farms, there isn’t a tree anywhere near the fields to provide shade. Celebration and other grasses will perform in sunlight. It is shade that causes issues for grass.

  171. Q: Do chinch bugs infest Celebration?

    No, Celebration is naturally chinch bug resistant. Chinch bugs don’t seem to like the taste of Celebration.

  172. Q: Does Covington stay green year-round?

    No. Covington is a warm-season grass variety meaning it will go into dormancy when the weather turns colder in fall and winter. The duration will depend on a number of factors like your location, rainfall amounts, etc.

  173. Q: Is Covington resistant to pet urine?

    No grass is completely immune to pet urine. There are supplements on the market now that can be added to your pet’s food to help neutralize the high pH levels in urine that can damage grass. However, we haven’t tried these and aren’t sure of their effectiveness. They make a wide variety of different varieties that you can find at your local pet store or online.

  174. Q: If I put Covington in a lawn and the neighbor has another grass type, will Covington take over their grass?

    As a centipede grass, Covington spreads with above ground runners (called stolons) only. If Covington begins to encroach into a neighbors yard, you will be able to see and stop it. However, Covington is not aggressive and this should not be a problem.

  175. Q: Does Covington like full sun?

    Covington, like all grasses, loves full sunlight. Remember when Covington and other grasses are grown on sod farms, there isn’t a tree anywhere near the fields to provide shade. Covington and other grasses will perform in sunlight. It is shade that causes issues for grass.

  176. Q: Do chinch bugs infest Covington?

    No, centipede grass is not a favorite of chinch bugs but there are other insects to look out for like spittlebugs.

  177. Q: Does Discovery stay green year-round?

    No. Discovery is a warm-season grass variety meaning it will go into dormancy when the weather turns colder in fall and winter. The duration will depend on a number of factors like your location, rainfall amounts, etc.

  178. Q: Is Discovery resistant to pet urine?

    No grass is immune to the effects pet urine. What we can say is that Discovery is a fast spreading grass and will recover quicker than other grass varieties. There are supplements on the market now that can be added to your pet’s food to help neutralize the high pH levels in urine that can damage grass. However, we haven’t tried these and aren’t sure of their effectiveness. They make a wide variety of different varieties that you can find at your local pet store or online.

  179. Q: If I put Discovery in a lawn and the neighbor has another grass type, will Discovery take over their grass?

    Discovery is an aggressive variety that spreads with both above ground stolons and below ground rhizomes. It can encroach into other yards if not maintained properly.

  180. Q: Does Discovery use less water than other grasses?

    Discovery doesn’t use less water than other grasses. What makes it more drought-hardy is that, when it stops getting water it will go into dormancy and not die like other grass varieties can. When the water returns, Discovery will green back up in a number of days. Discovery will probably need about 1 inch of water per week in the active growing season either from irrigation or natural rainfall.

  181. Q: Does Discovery like full sun?

    Discovery, like all grasses, loves full sunlight. Remember when Discovery and other grasses are grown on sod farms, there isn’t a tree anywhere near the fields to provide shade. Discovery and other grasses will perform in sunlight. It is shade that causes issues for grass.

  182. Q: Do chinch bugs infest Discovery?

    No, Discovery is naturally chinch bug resistant. Chinch bugs don’t seem to like the taste of Discovery.

  183. Q: Does EMPIRE Turf stay green year-round?

    No. EMPIRE Turf is a warm-season turfgrass variety meaning it will go into dormancy when the weather turns colder in fall and winter. The duration will depend on a number of factors like your location, rainfall amounts, etc.

  184. Q: How well will EMPIRE handle shady areas?

    EMPIRE Turf has a moderate shade tolerance. We usually recommend that it needs 4-5 hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight per day. I will require more than that if is filtered sunlight through branches. Like all grasses, EMPIRE needs sunlight to survive and will begin to thin out if it isn’t getting the sunlight that it needs. Other considerations are the amount of tree roots beneath the grass and the competition for nutrients.

  185. Q: Is EMPIRE resistant to pet urine?

    No grass is immune to the effects of pet urine. Some varieties will recover from damage faster than others. There are supplements on the market now that can be added to your pet’s food to help neutralize the high pH levels in urine that can damage grass. However, we haven’t tried these and aren’t sure of their effectiveness. They make a wide variety of different varieties that you can find at your local pet store or online.

  186. Q: If I put EMPIRE in a lawn and the neighbor has another grass type, will EMPIRE take over their grass?

    EMPIRE Turf is very rugged variety that spreads with both above ground stolons and below ground rhizomes. That said, it is not as aggressive a grower as a bermudagrass. EMPIRE should not encroach into your neighbor’s lawn if maintained properly.

  187. Q: Does EMPIRE Turf like full sun?

    EMPIRE Turf, like all grasses, love full sunlight. Remember when EMPIRE Turf and other grasses are grown on sod farms, there isn’t a tree anywhere near the fields to provide shade. EMPIRE and other grasses will perform in sunlight. It is shade that causes issues for turfgrass.

  188. Q: Do chinch bugs infest EMPIRE Turf?

    No, EMPIRE Turf is naturally chinch bug resistant. Chinch bugs don’t seem to like the taste of EMPIRE.

  189. Q: Does GEO Zoysia stay green year-round?

    No. GEO Zoysia is a warm-season turfgrass variety meaning it will go into dormancy when the weather turns colder in fall and winter. The duration will depend on a number of factors like your location, rainfall amounts, etc.

  190. Q: How well will GEO handle shady areas?

    GEO Zoysia has a moderate shade tolerance. We usually recommend that it needs 4-5 hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight per day but more than that if is filtered sunlight. Like all grasses, GEO needs sunlight to survive and will begin to thin out if it isn’t getting the light it needs.

  191. Q: Is GEO resistant to pet urine?

    No grass is immune to the effects of pet urine. Some varieties will recover from damage faster than others. There are supplements on the market now that can be added to your pet’s food to help neutralize the high pH levels in urine that can damage grass. However, we haven’t tried these and aren’t sure of their effectiveness. They make a wide variety of different varieties that you can find at your local pet store or online.

  192. Q: If I put GEO in a lawn and the neighbor has another grass type, will GEO take over their grass?

    GEO Zoysia is very rugged variety that spreads with both above ground stolons and below ground rhizomes. That said, it is not as aggressive a grower as a bermudagrass. GEO should not encroach into your neighbor’s lawn if maintained properly.

  193. Q: Does GEO Zoysia use less water than other grasses?

    GEO Zoysia doesn’t use less water than other grasses. What makes it more drought-hardy is that, when it stops getting water it will go into dormancy and not die like other grass varieties can. When the water returns, GEO will green back up in a number of days. GEO Zoysia will probably need about 1 inch of water per week in the active growing season either from irrigation or natural rainfall.

  194. Q: Does GEO Zoysia like full sun?

    GEO Zoysia, like all grasses, love full sunlight. Remember when GEO Zoysia and other grasses are grown on sod farms, there isn’t a tree anywhere near the fields to provide shade. GEO and other grasses will perform in sunlight. It is shade that causes issues for turfgrass.

  195. Q: Do chinch bugs infest GEO Zoysia?

    No, GEO Zoysia is naturally chinch bug resistant. Chinch bugs don’t seem to like the taste of GEO.

  196. Q: Do chinch bugs infest GEO Zoysia?

    No, GEO Zoysia is naturally chinch bug resistant. Chinch bugs don’t seem to like the taste of GEO.

  197. Q: Does Latitude 36 stay green year-round?

    No. Latitude 36 is a warm-season grass variety, meaning it will go into dormancy when the weather turns colder in fall and winter. The duration will depend on a number of factors like your location, rainfall amounts, etc.

  198. Q: Is Latitude 36 resistant to pet urine?

    No grass is immune to the effects pet urine. What we can say is that Latitude 36 is a fast spreading grass and will recover quicker than other grass varieties. There are supplements on the market now that can be added to your pet’s food to help neutralize the high pH levels in urine that can damage grass. However, we haven’t tried these and aren’t sure of their effectiveness. They make a wide variety of different varieties that you can find at your local pet store or online.

  199. Q: If I put Latitude 36 in a lawn and the neighbor has another grass type, will Latitude 36 take over their grass?

    Latitude 36 is an aggressive variety that spreads with both above ground stolons and below ground rhizomes. It can encroach into other yards if not maintained properly. 


  200. Q: Does Latitude 36 use less water than other grasses?

    Latitude 36 doesn’t use less water than other grasses. What makes it more drought-hardy is that, when it stops getting water it will go into dormancy and not die like other grass varieties can. When the water returns, Latitude 36 will green back up in a number of days. Latitude 36 will probably need about 1 inch of water per week in the active growing season either from irrigation or natural rainfall.

  201. Q: Does Latitude 36 like full sun?

    Latitude 36, like all grasses, loves full sunlight. Remember when Latitude 36 and other grasses are grown on sod farms, there isn’t a tree anywhere near the fields to provide shade. Latitude 36 and other grasses will perform in sunlight. It is shade that causes issues for grass.

  202. Q: Do chinch bugs infest Latitude 36?

    No, Latitude 36 is naturally chinch bug resistant. Chinch bugs don’t seem to like the taste of Latitude 36.

  203. Q: Does NorthBridge stay green year-round?

    No. NorthBridge is a warm-season grass variety meaning it will go into dormancy when the weather turns colder in fall and winter. The duration will depend on a number of factors like your location, rainfall amounts, etc.

  204. Q: Is NorthBridge resistant to pet urine?

    No grass is immune to the effects pet urine. What we can say is that NorthBridge is a fast spreading grass and will recover quicker than other grass varieties. There are supplements on the market now that can be added to your pet’s food to help neutralize the high pH levels in urine that can damage grass. However, we haven’t tried these and aren’t sure of their effectiveness. They make a wide variety of different varieties that you can find at your local pet store or online.

  205. Q: If I put NorthBridge in a lawn and the neighbor has another grass type, will NorthBridge take over their grass?

    NorthBridge is an aggressive variety that spreads with both above ground stolons and below ground rhizomes. It can encroach into other yards if not maintained properly. 


  206. Q: Does NorthBridge use less water than other grasses?

    NorthBridge doesn’t use less water than other grasses. What makes it more drought-hardy is that, when it stops getting water it will go into dormancy and not die like other grass varieties can. When the water returns, NorthBridge will green back up in a number of days. NorthBridge will probably need about 1 inch of water per week in the active growing season either from irrigation or natural rainfall.

  207. Q: Does NorthBridge like full sun?

    NorthBridge, like all grasses, loves full sunlight. Remember when NorthBridge and other grasses are grown on sod farms, there isn’t a tree anywhere near the fields to provide shade. NorthBridge and other grasses will perform in sunlight. It is shade that causes issues for grass.

  208. Q: Do chinch bugs infest NorthBridge?

    No, NorthBridge is naturally chinch bug resistant. Chinch bugs don’t seem to like the taste of NorthBridge.

  209. Q: Does Palmetto stay green year-round?

    No. Palmetto is a warm-season grass variety meaning it will go into dormancy when the weather turns colder in fall and winter. The duration will depend on a number of factors like your location, rainfall amounts, etc.

  210. Q: Is Palmetto resistant to pet urine?

    No grass is completely immune to pet urine. There are supplements on the market now that can be added to your pet’s food to help neutralize the high pH levels in urine that can damage grass. However, we haven’t tried these and aren’t sure of their effectiveness. They make a wide variety of different varieties that you can find at your local pet store or online.

  211. Q: If I put Palmetto in a lawn and the neighbor has another grass type, will Palmetto take over their grass?

    As a St. Augustine grass, Palmetto speads with above ground runners (called stolons) only. If Palmetto begins to encroach into a neighbors yard, you will be able to see and stop it. However, Palmetto is not aggressive and this should not be a problem. 


  212. Q: Does Palmetto like full sun?

    Palmetto, like all grasses, loves full sunlight. Remember when Palmetto and other grasses are grown on sod farms, there isn’t a tree anywhere near the fields to provide shade. Palmetto and other grasses will perform in sunlight. It is shade that causes issues for grass.

  213. Q: Do chinch bugs infest Palmetto?

    Yes, chinch bugs in the southern states can infest a Palmetto lawn. We recommend pre-emptive treatment with insecticides in the spring and the fall to prevent them from becoming a problem.

  214. Q: Does Santee stay green year-round?

    No. Santee is a warm-season grass variety meaning it will go into dormancy when the weather turns colder in fall and winter. The duration will depend on a number of factors like your location, rainfall amounts, etc.

  215. Q: Is Santee resistant to pet urine?

    No grass is completely immune to pet urine. There are supplements on the market now that can be added to your pet’s food to help neutralize the high pH levels in urine that can damage grass. However, we haven’t tried these and aren’t sure of their effectiveness. They make a wide variety of different varieties that you can find at your local pet store or online.

  216. Q: If I put Santee in a lawn and the neighbor has another grass type, will Santee take over their grass?

    As a centipede grass, Santee speads with above ground runners (called stolons) only. If Santee begins to encroach into a neighbors yard, you will be able to see and stop it. However, Santee is not aggressive and this should not be a problem.

  217. Q: Does Santee like full sun?

    Santee, like all grasses, loves full sunlight. Remember when Santee and other grasses are grown on sod farms, there isn’t a tree anywhere near the fields to provide shade. Santee and other grasses will perform in sunlight. It is shade that causes issues for grass.

  218. Q: Do chinch bugs infest Santee?

    No, centipede grass is not a favorite of chinch bugs but there are other insects to look out for like spittlebugs.

  219. Q: Does Sapphire stay green year-round?

    No. Sapphire is a warm-season grass variety meaning it will go into dormancy when the weather turns colder in fall and winter. The duration will depend on a number of factors like your location, rainfall amounts, etc.

  220. Q: Is Sapphire resistant to pet urine?

    No grass is completely immune to pet urine. There are supplements on the market now that can be added to your pet’s food to help neutralize the high pH levels in urine that can damage grass. However, we haven’t tried these and aren’t sure of their effectiveness. They make a wide variety of different varieties that you can find at your local pet store or online.

  221. Q: If I put Sapphire in a lawn and the neighbor has another grass type, will Sapphire take over their grass?

    As a St. Augustine grass, Sapphire speads with above ground runners (called stolons) only. If Sapphire begins to encroach into a neighbors yard, you will be able to see and stop it. However, Sapphire is not aggressive and this should not be a problem.

  222. Q: Does Sapphire like full sun?

    Sapphire, like all grasses, loves full sunlight. Remember when Sapphire and other grasses are grown on sod farms, there isn’t a tree anywhere near the fields to provide shade. Sapphire and other grasses will perform in sunlight. It is shade that causes issues for grass.

  223. Q: Do chinch bugs infest Sapphire?

    Yes, chinch bugs in the southern states can infest a Sapphire lawn. We recommend pre-emptive treatment with insecticides in the spring and the fall to prevent them from becoming a problem.

  224. Q: Where does Sunday originate from?

    Sunday Ultra-Dwarf Bermudagrass is a unique greens grass selected from Cotton Creek Golf Club in South Alabama in 2007. Sunday originated from an undefined Bermuda green at Cotton Creek Golf Club, known in the region as “Cotton Creek Dwarf.”

  225. Q: Why was Sunday selected in the first place?

    Sunday was originally selected for its dense growth canopy, lighter color, and reduced seed heads.

  226. Q: Genetic stability has been a thorn in the side of many greens grasses. Is this a problem for Sunday?

    Genetic stability is a key feature for a successful putting green, and Sunday has proven to be stable for more than 25 years. The variety, referred to as C-1 after its initial selection, has been protected and isolated from commercial use until genetic stability could be established.

  227. Q: How did developer John Chapman and his team discover this grass?

    In the mid 1980’s Cotton Creek Golf Club was looking for an improved greens grass and Chapman, who has been in the turf and golf industry for over 30 years, began pulling samples from “Cotton Creek Dwarf” greens that had a different appearance or desirable characteristic. He began propagating and maintaining these samples and found one of them to outperform anything then available on the market. In April of 1987 the Cotton Creek Golf Club was sprigged with this experimental grass and 25 years later these first greens are still performing well and have remained stable. Sunday is a 2007 selection from these original greens.

  228. Q: How will Sunday handle cold?

    Sunday handles the cold quite well. It has seen temperatures as low as 5 degrees and survived multiple days of below freezing temperatures.


  229. Q: How well will Bella handle shady areas?

    Bella Bluegrass has a moderate shade tolerance. We usually recommend that it needs 4-5 hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight per day but more than that if is filtered sunlight. Like all grasses, Bella needs sunlight to survive and will begin to thin out if it isn’t getting the light it needs. Increasing mowing height in shady areas will help minimize thinning of the grass.

  230. Q: Is Bella resistant to pet urine?

    No grass is immune to the effects of pet urine. Some varieties will recover from damage faster than others. There are supplements on the market now that can be added to your pet’s food to help neutralize the high pH levels in urine that can damage grass. However, we haven’t tried these and aren’t sure of their effectiveness. They make different varieties that you can find at your local pet store or online.

  231. Q: Does Bella Bluegrass use less water than other grasses?

    Based on real world observations, Bella Bluegrass uses approximately 35-40% less water than other Kentucky bluegrass varieties.

  232. Q: Does Bella Bluegrass like full sun?

    Bella Bluegrass, like all grasses, loves full sunlight. Remember when Bella Bluegrass and other grasses are grown on sod farms there aren’t trees anywhere near the fields to provide shade. Bella and other grasses will perform in sunlight. It is shade that causes issues for turfgrass.

  233. Q: What insects can be a problem for Bella Bluegrass?

    White grubs are the biggest issue for Bella. The best thing to do is consult a local expert for preventative grub control practices. They will advise on timing, product and application methods for prevention.

  234. Q: What insects can be a problem for Bella Bluegrass?

    White grubs are the biggest issue for Bella. The best thing to do is consult a local expert for preventative grub control practices. They will advise on timing, product and application methods for prevention.

  235. Q: How well will HGT handle shady areas?

    HGT has a moderate shade tolerance. We usually recommend that it needs 4-5 hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight per day but more than that if is filtered sunlight. Like all grasses, HGT needs sunlight to survive and will begin to thin out if it isn’t getting the light it needs. Increasing mowing height in shady areas will help minimize thinning of the grass.

  236. Q: Is HGT resistant to pet urine?

    No grass is immune to the effects of pet urine. Some varieties will recover from damage faster than others. There are supplements on the market now that can be added to your pet’s food to help neutralize the high pH levels in urine that can damage grass. However, we haven’t tried these and aren’t sure of their effectiveness. They make different varieties that you can find at your local pet store or online.

  237. Q: Does HGT like full sun?

    HGT, like all grasses, loves full sunlight. Remember when HGT and other grasses are grown on sod farms there aren’t trees anywhere near the fields to provide shade. HGT and other grasses will perform in sunlight. It is shade that causes issues for turfgrass.

  238. Q: What insects can be a problem for HGT?

    White grubs are the biggest issue for HGT. HGT does have increased resistance to white grubs but they are still capable of infesting. The best thing to do is consult a local expert for preventative grub control practices. They will advise on timing, product and application methods for prevention.

  239. Q: How well will RPR handle shady areas?

    RPR has a moderate shade tolerance. We usually recommend that it needs 4-5 hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight per day but more than that if is filtered sunlight. Like all grasses, RPR needs sunlight to survive and will begin to thin out if it isn’t getting the light it needs. Increasing mowing height in shady areas will help minimize thinning of the grass.

  240. Q: Is RPR resistant to pet urine?

    No grass is immune to the effects of pet urine. Some varieties will recover from damage faster than others. There are supplements on the market now that can be added to your pet’s food to help neutralize the high pH levels in urine that can damage grass. However, we haven’t tried these and aren’t sure of their effectiveness. They make different varieties that you can find at your local pet store or online.

  241. Q: Does RPR like full sun?

    RPR, like all grasses, loves full sunlight. Remember when RPR and other grasses are grown on sod farms there aren’t trees anywhere near the fields to provide shade. RPR and other grasses will perform in sunlight. It is shade that causes issues for turfgrass.

  242. Q: What insects can be a problem for RPR?

    White grubs are the biggest issue for RPR. The best thing to do is consult a local expert for preventative grub control practices. They will advise on timing, product and application methods for prevention.

  243. Q: How well will EMPIRE Turf handle shady areas?

    EMPIRE Turf has a moderate shade tolerance. We usually recommend that it needs 4-5 hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight per day but more than that if is filtered sunlight. Like all grasses, EMPIRE needs sunlight to survive and will begin to thin out if it isn’t getting the light it needs.

  244. Q: Do chinch bugs infest EMPIRE Turf?

    No, EMPIRE Turf is naturally chinch bug resistant. Chinch bugs don’t seem to like the taste of EMPIRE.

  245. Q: Do chinch bugs infest Captiva?

    No, Captiva is the only St. Augustine grass on the market today with resistance to the southern chinch bug variety. However, it is recommended that you still apply an insecticide a few times per year to ward off the insects adaptation to this variety.